Buddhism in Ladakh
Ladakh is a high plateaux of the Indian Himalayan and Karakoram ranges, cradled by mountains that rise up to 18000ft. It is a vast wilderness of taupe and tawny hues. Spectacularly jagged, arid mountains enfold this magical Buddhist ex-kingdom. Picture-perfectgompas(Tibetan Buddhist monasteries) dramatically crown rocky outcrops amid whitewashed stupasand maniwalls. Colourful fluttering prayer flags share their spiritual messages metaphorically with the mountain breeze. Prayer wheels spun clockwise release more merit-making mantras. Gompainteriors are colourfully awash with the murals and statuary of countless bodhisattvas.
The population of Ladakh is predominantly Buddhist and Ladakh has been deeply influenced by Tibetan Buddhism, which follows the Mahayana and Vajrayana schools. In these forms of Buddhism, Buddha is worshipped a deity who has attained Nirvana (freedom from the cycle of birth and death). Various incarnations of Buddha, known as Bodhisattvas, are also worshipped in monasteries.
The mythology of Tibetan Buddhism has many tales of various spirits and demons. These representations of both good and evil qualities are depicted in the form of masks and their stories are enacted as masked dances during the annual festivals of various Gompasin Ladakh.
The spiritual leaders are the lamas who are seen everywhere in their bright terracotta robes. Although they look and dress alike, the lamas of Tibetan Buddhism are divided into a number of different orders. A simplistic division is that of the Red Hats and Yellow Hats. They have a great influence among the Buddhist laity, as preachers, teachers and in their role as priests and ministers on all solemn occasions of family — births, marriages, and deaths and the great new year festival of Losar. They are advisors on the efficacy of various actions and exorcists with powers to banish evil spirits. The lamas live congregated in thegompas. The head lama of each gompais a kushok, the incarnation of some holy man of long ago. The kushokenjoys the courtesy title of Rinpoche, the Precious Jewel. Like the monasteries of medieval Europe, many of the gompasare supported by endowments of agricultural land. The rest of their requirements, they receive from the villagers in kindDespite a tumultuous history of internal wars and external aggression, Ladakh never lost their cultural and religious heritage since the 8th century. Thanks to its adherence to the Indian Union, it is also one of the rare regions in the Himalaya where the traditional Tibetan culture, society, and buildings survived the Chinese Revolution.
The Buddhist culture once extended from Mongolia and Tibet into the Manchu Dynasty of China and is now driven into isolated corners on the Himalayan Plateau. Buddhism is at home in Ladakh and represents the greater Tibetan culture that once existed.
Thiksey Monastery
Thiksey monastery is a 15th century monastery, and is located on the top of a hill in Thiksey village, about 19km away from the town of Leh. The monastery is at an elevation of 11,800ft.
The monastery is a 12 stories tall complex with separate set of buildings for female renunciates. It is noted for its resemblance to the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. The monastery also houses a 49ft. tall statue of Maitreya(future Buddha). This statue was installed to commemorate the visit of the 14thDalai Lama in 1970.
Thiksey monastery belongs to the Gelug sect, more commonly known as the ‘Yellow Hats’. The Gelug school, alternatively known as Ganden-Pa, was founded by Je Tsongkhapa, a philosopher and Tibetan religious leader. And, to this day the Ganden Tripais the nominal head of the school, though its most influential figure is the Dalai Lama.
In the early 15th century, Je Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelug School sent six of his disciples to remote regions of Tibet to spread the teachings of the new school. Tsongkhapa gave one of his disciples, Jangsem Sherab Zangpo, a small statue of Amitayus, containing bone powder and a drop of Tsongkhapa's own blood. Tsongkhapa directed him to meet the King of Ladakh with a message seeking his help in the propagation of Buddhism. The King loved the gift of the statue. After this meeting, the King directed his minister to help Sherab Zangpo to establish a monastery of the Gelug order in Ladakh. Hence, the Thiksey Monastery was established.
The annual festival held in the monastery precincts is known as the Gustor ritual, which is held from the 17th to 19th day of the ninth month of the Tibetan calendar (October–November). Sacred dances such as the mask dance or Cham Dance are performed as a part of this ritual. Another special feature is the trade fair held at the base of the monastery, in which villagers from all over Ladakh assemble to barter and trade items and socialize. Sand mandalas are made for smaller festivals. The morning prayers at 7 am, with synchronized chanting of the Buddhist sutrasat this monastery, attract many worshippers to observe the services
Hemis Monastery
Hemis monastery is a 17thcentury monastery, located on the west bank of the river Indus at a distance of 45km from Leh. This is the largest monastery in Ladakh.
Hemis is affiliated to the Drukpa, or the Red-Hat sect of Buddhism. It is claimed to be a branch of the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism. Within the Drukpa Lineage, there are further sub-schools, most notably the eastern Kham tradition and middle Drukpa school which prospered in Ladakh and surrounding areas. In Bhutan the Drukpa Lineage is the dominant school and state religion.
Hemis monastery was only re-established in the 17thcentury. The original monastery existed well before the 11thcentury. Naropa, the pupil of the yogi Tilopa, and teacher of the translator Marpais connected with this monastery.
The Hemis Festival is dedicated to Lord Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) venerated as the Dance Performance at Hemis Monastery representative reincarnate of Buddha. He is believed to have been born on the 10th day of the fifth month of the Monkey year as predicted by the Buddha Shakyamuni. It is also believed that his life mission was, and remains, to improve the spiritual condition of all living beings. And so on this day, which comes once in a cycle of 12 years, Hemis observes a major extravaganza in his memory.
The most esoteric of festivities are the mystic mask dances. The Mask Dances of Ladakh are referred collectively as chams Performance. Chams performance is essentially a part of Tantric tradition, performed only in those gompaswhich follow the Tantric Vajrayana teachings and the monks perform tantric worship.
Lamayuru Monastery
Yungdrung Tharpaling Monastery known today as Lamayuru, is the most ancient monastery of Ladakh, dating back to the 10th century. It is affiliated to the Drikung Kagyu Red-Hat sect of Buddhism. It has a population of about 150 permanent resident monks.Legend has it that the region, where Lamayuru is situated today, approximately 127km to the west of Leh was under a big lake at the time of Buddha Shakyamuni (historic Buddha). The lake is said to having been home to many nagas(holy serpents) .
Mahasiddha Naropa visited the place and spent a long time in strict retreat in a cave there and turned the place into a sacred land. The cave still exists, well preserved and forms part of the main shrine of Lamayuru Monastery. In 1038 the great translator Rinchen Zangpo (958–1055) built five temples at Lamayuru. One of the five temples at Lamayuru is still in perfect condition.
The lineage of Drikung Kagyu was founded by the great scholar and meditator Kyobpa Jigten Sumgon (1143-1217). This realized holder of the blessing lineage of Gampopa, Milarepa, and Marpa, mastered the profound Mahamudra and the Six Yogas of Naropa, practices that continue to be transmitted and practiced by all Kagyu schools to this day.
In the early days Lamayuru Monastery had more than 500 resident monks. They studied, contemplated on and practiced the teachings of Buddha in general and the teachings of the whispered lineage of the Mahasiddhas Tilopa and Naropa in particular. Through them the teachings of the Kagyu Lineage spread far and wide. Most of the senior monks of Lamayuru were educated and trained in spiritual activities in Drikung Thil and Yangrigar monasteries, in Tibet, before the Chinese invasion in 1959.
Lamayuru is host to two annual masked dance festivals in the second and fifth months of the Tibetan lunar calendar, when all the monks from these surrounding gompas gather together to pray.
Other Buddhist Gompas
Diskit Monastery
A 32ft. tall statue of Maitreya near Diskit Monastery which is a sub-gompa of the Thiksey Monastery. It is located in Nubra Valley at a distance of 150km from Leh. One has to cross Khardung-La Pass (17,582ft.) in order to reach Nubra Valley from Leh.
Stakna Monastery
Stakna Monastery is affiliated to Drugpa sect. It is located in Stakna, 25km from Leh on the left bank of the Indus River.
It was founded in the late 16th century by a Bhutanese scholar and saint, Chosje Jamyang Palkar. The name, literally meaning 'tiger's nose' was given because it was built on a hill shaped like a tiger's nose.
Shanti Stupa
Shanti Stupa is a Buddhist white-domed stupa (chorten) on a hilltop in Leh. It was built in 1991 by Japanese Buddhist Bhikshu, Gyomyo Nakamura and part of the Peace Pagoda mission. The Shanti Stupa holds the relics of the Buddha at its base, enshrined by the 14th Dalai Lama. The stupa has become a tourist attraction not only due to its religious significance but also due to its location which provides panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
Suggested Itinerary
All the gompas mentioned above can be visited on a 3 day trip. However, it is recommended that a day zero be added to the itinerary in order to acclimatize to the high-altitudes of Ladakh.
Best Time to Visit
Best time to visit Ladakh is between the months of June and September. That is when the weather would be least harsh, and all roads and mountain passes are most likely to remain open.
Getting There
By air: Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airportat Leh has daily flights to and from New Delhi.
By road: Road connectivity to Ladakh is via Manali, Himachal Pradesh. It takes 2 days to reach Leh from Manali, but it is better to acclimatize to the high altitudes of Ladakh. However, this road is usually closed between the months of November and May.
